Mon. 27th May ‘24
For much of the day, the unequivocal answer to the question in the title was “no”, and we thought that today might be a struggle to find the smoother path. For as start, whilst the camp at Spitzkoppe was as isolated and as basic as the camps at Mesosaurus and NamibRand, it didn’t have that special feel that the other two did. It didn’t help that the wind got up during the night (as we’d been warned that it might). I was able to put my ear plugs in and block most of the noise out, but Janet had a disturbed night.
Once out of bed and down from the tent (the biggest hassle is getting our shoes on at the top of the ladder) the priority (well 2nd priority) was to get the kettle on. We have a gas burner for our kettle, but at times I think we’d be better off just lighting matches under the kettle – even with only enough water for 2 cups of tea, it takes about 15mins to get the kettle (nearly) boiling.
Our clomping around disturbed a family of rock hyraxes, who all – mum, dad, teenagers & babies – trooped out from their crevice and lined up to see what was happening. However, they soon went from “who are you?” to “this looks interesting” and they got a little bit too curious. Then when the palewinged starlings started to get in on the act too, it all got a bit tedious and we had to get into breakfast-protection mode.
In theory, there isn’t too far for us to drive today, just 150km. Janet has even planned a stop where we can grab a coffee and get access to WiFi. Internet access has been patchy throughout our time in Namibia (despite having a local SIM in my phone) and we suspect that it is going to get worse as we head further north. Any opportunity to put up a blog post and catch up with the world is welcome (apart from the news that Leeds were beaten in the play-off final and so it will be another year of Championship football next year).
What we hadn’t taken into account was the quality of the road we’d be travelling. It was horrendous, easily the worst that we’ve encountered. There were deep ruts and corrugations with occasional rocks to be avoided and sandy patches to be traversed. The din was horrendous as everything in Mungo was banging and rattling. No point in trying to listen to any podcasts as we had to shout to be heard above the racket. With almost no traffic, we were used to driving on whichever side of the road was smoothest – but here, for mile after mile, it made no difference. Shake, rattle and roll (clatter) all the way.
At one point Janet pulls over, with a bad feeling about the tyres. Sure enough, we have our second puncture of the trip. Front nearside this time, and at least we caught it before we wrecked the tyre, so we might be able to get it repaired. It was a much slicker and quicker operation to change the wheel this time – not Formula 1 standards, but practice and all that. Last time we had a puncture, none of the passing cars stopped to ask if we needed a hand, but this time 3 did. We didn’t need help but their stopping to ask helped restore our faith in humanity.
Then, with 15km to go we see my favourite road sign in all the world – announcing the end of the unmade road. 42 years ago (near as), I vowed to Janet that I would forsake all others. However, I have now fallen deeply and madly in love with tarmac roads and my vows are being tested! Suddenly, the grass is greener. Not only are we able to roll along the last stretch in glorious quiet, but when we get to Mowani Mountain Camp, we find that we’ve landed on our feet once again.
We’re staying in what is described as a ‘tent’ but actually, it is a little bungalow that happens to have canvas walls – but wooden floor, a thatched roof, ensuite shower & toilet (along with an outside shower) and a little balcony with chairs looking out over the plain to the hills in the distance. The ‘camp’ consists of a dozen or so of these rooms, nestled amongst huge boulders, and all attached to a lodge with all the facilities you could wish for, including open air lounge and restaurant and, most importantly, WiFi! It’s certainly a world away from Spitzkoppe this morning.
Having just had the drive we have, I think we’d have been forgiven for going straight for a beer. However, there is cake for afternoon tea and so we restrain ourselves (on the beer front at any rate). Once we’ve recovered our equilibrium, it is time for a little bit of an explore. The small swimming pool doesn’t really interest us, but the viewpoint does – especially as sunset is approaching, there are mats to sprawl out on and there is even a bar! Restraint can only go so far, so a G&T is called for as we watch the sun dip behind the hills.
It’s only once the sun has gone down do we realise how much heat the massive rocks have soaked up – the temperature doesn’t drop at all. With the cloudless sky and dry air, we’d been expecting the evenings to get cold (and maybe they will as we get further north), but here it is all still very warm. Over dinner we think about the day that we’ve had. Whilst the road was terrible whichever side of it we drove on, we realise that the grass is very green right where we are. Better still, we learn that we have a wedding in Taiwan to go to next year. Congratulations to Calum and Alice, we’re very much looking forward to joining your celebrations.