Wed. 14th October ’26
Today is our only opportunity to walk around Charloteetown, so waterproof shells on, we set off towards the harbour. The first thing we notice is a tour group coming towards us, the second is the two, no make that three cruise ships which docked overnight. The people keep streaming towards us, and the coaches and minibuses are lined up ready for day trips around the island. All we can think is that the Green Gables historical site will be rammed full of wet people off the cruise ships – and thank goodness we were there yesterday.
We head away from the dock around the harbour and get distracted by Dave’s Lobster Shack, so the photo had to be done. We were really getting cold and wet and even a cappuccino did not warm us up. Looking at the walking tour not far away was Beaconsfield House, which had good reviews of their tour. Dave was not so sure but at least it was warm and dry inside, so we signed up for the noon tour and the group of eleven of us set off around the Victorian House. After discussing the William Morris wallpaper and the marble skirting boards I knew this was not for Dave.
We learnt all about James and Edith Peake who commissioned this very expensive and elegant home in 1877 as we walked around the rooms. It was just not in the same league as somewhere like Chatsworth House nor as detailed as a National Trust tour back home. Although it was larger than Green Gables it was not like any English stately home. Apparently, James made his fortune in shipbuilding, first in the UK and then here in Canada. However, he missed the switch from wooden to steel ships and so went bankrupt after only 5 years of living here.
As the guide explained about keeping human hair and making into keepsakes after the hair owner passed away, I was reminded of the long piece of my grandmother’s hair kept in a paper bag at home. What I did not expect was the ornate garland on display. I will not be going home to turn my grandmother’s hair into anything like that. Still, I stuck it out to the end and was rewarded by views over the harbour from the 360° glass belvedere on the top floor where James liked to count how many of the ships entering the harbour had been built in his shipyard.
I caught up with Dave tucking into a Pho to warm up before we headed back to the hotel and a drive to Fort Amherst National Park where we were the only car in the car park. The rain had not let up all day but, determined, we headed out to see the grassy remains of the fort. It was never a huge 
stone-built affair but was guarded by 18 cannons and was the seat of government 1720 to 1770. It was too cold to digest any more facts, so we headed off to see the two Warren point range lights on this little headland. They were built in 1907 and used to help guide mariners into Charlottetown though a narrow channel.
What a difference a day makes. Yesterday we enjoyed some late autumn sunshine and a beautiful quiet day exploring PEI devoid of tourists. Today we have been cold and wet and surrounded by tourists from the three cruise ships in town. Fortunately, our travels so far have been much more like yesterday than today. We reflect on how fortunate we have been with the weather and the amazing places we have seen. Let’s see what tomorrow brings.