Sat. 15th June ’24
We head out in Bonno’s safari truck at 6:32am before the sun even breaks the horizon. It is still very cold so we are grateful for the blankets and bush babies (hot water bottles) to keep us warm. We are perched up high on the safari truck with no windows or roof for protection from the cold wind. Soon after leaving the camp, Bonno checks the “African newspaper” by reading the footprints in the sandy ground to see who passed by in the night whilst we were tucked up in bed. Next step is to listen for any warning cries from birds or smaller animals to warn that danger is close by. Finally, we listen for any contact calls between any lions close by. All we see are lion tracks so we head off following them.
The tracks are from the group of lions we saw yesterday but when these disappear we change tack as we hear over the radio that a mother and cubs have been seen in a dense clump of bushes. We are the second vehicle there but are too late to see the cubs playing as they have retreated into the bush. We briefly see mum through the branches but she soon disappears from sight, and none of them are seen again. We move on to see what else we can find. Two jackals distract us for a few minutes before the sun is fully up. They will soon retire into the bush and hid/sleep until nightfall.
We head through Goaxhlo Island, commonly known as dead tree forest, an area which for a while was under water. This killed the mainly Mopane trees but in this atmosphere and resistance to termites mean they are dying slowly and leave an eerie looking place. Dead trees always make a good picture but this is certainly not as photogenic as Deadvlei in Namibia. We didn’t hang around long – places to see and all that.
By now it is coffee time. All very civilised these morning safaris providing coffee and cookies. We stopped by a flooded area and enjoy the view. Over the radio we hear that the lioness is out sunning herself so back we go to see what we can see. It is a zoo of vehicles trying to get the best view for their clients and the don’t drive off the tracks rule is seemingly ignored. We do get some good photos of mother, but the cubs remain hidden with an occasional ear coming into view. As the cubs refuse to come out we cut our losses and move on.
Just as we give up looking for other animals and head back to the lodge for lunch we stop and chat to a couple doing their own safari drive who say there is a group of lions ahead by the side of the road. Sure enough we count seven lions relaxing in the shade. This is the same seven lions we saw checking out their territory yesterday. What a sight they made.
Tonight is our last night at Okuti, which means a boat trip along the river. These are always enjoyable and we were happy to see just three life jackets set out on our boat. Dave, me and our guide Bonno. Testing our photo skills it is time to capture kingfishers and fish eagles. The beautiful, tiny malachite kingfishers are small and tantalisingly move from reed to reed to test our speed at getting that great photo. The fish eagles perch right at the top of the trees on the river bank and stand out by their white breasts.
We also learn about the plants on and around the river. Bonno made a great necklace from a lily flower and stem, just like men used to when proposing to their loved ones. Also he explained the many uses of the papyrus grass and even pealed the stalks to provide a soft white inner which is great for weaving into mattresses and other things. It is great to slow the pace down and rise along the river. As always there is time to stop and see the sun go down whilst admiring the golden hour tinge to the reeds.