Wed. 5th June ’24
Today we opt for the slightly longer, but probably quicker tarmac route to our next destination. This also has the advantage of going through a couple of towns with the essentials of supermarket, coffee and diesel. With a mended gas burner we were able to have tea and coffee before we hit the road and thankfully the weather is not so cold. One last look at the waterholes as we exit Ongouma but nothing there. Progress over tarmac was quick so we called in at Grootfontein to sort the above-mentioned essentials.
The north of Namibia is quite different to the south with its long straight tarmac roads with frequent picnic stops and soon it was time for lunch and a change of drivers again. Another difference is that there are many more houses along the side of the road, well small wooden structures with thatched or aluminium roofs in fenced enclosures. The fences are stakes in the ground close together, presumably to keep domestic animals in and wild animals out at night. The locals mainly walk everywhere and often are carrying containers to collect water from communal supplies. In-between the villages the scenery is flat scrub land with occasional trees.
Rundu is even more of a surprise as it is a sprawling town of small houses spread over quite a large area. On closer research we find it is a border town with Angola, which makes sense as tonight we are camping on the banks of the Kavango River. The Kavango River flows into Botswana where it is known as the Okovango River. As it is a while since we saw such a large river we want to sign up for the sundowner boat trip and fortunately there were spaces. We are now getting proficient at setting up the tent so soon have set up camp and have cameras with long lens ready to see what wildlife the river has to offer.
Eight of us climb onto the little launch and head out east, which turns out to be downstream. The surprise is that the water flows away from the sea and into Botswana where we will be next week and disperse in what is known as the Okovango Delta. Also, I am surprised to hear that the river is the border between Angola and Namibia. Definitely a soft border as locals cross in their little mokoro canoes as well have conversations with each other shouting across the water. Some country borders are only lines on paper and can divide communities.
We are soon distracted by the wildlife of birds, monitor lizard and biggest of all a crocodile. You would not mess with those crocodile teeth! After a while we turned round and headed back, the crocodile had not moved an inch, she was still formidable and queen of her territory. As the light begins to go it is difficult to take photos of the birds as small and fast is not a good combination. The other guests on the cruise are patient with us clicking away. Very few British venture this not in Namibia but despite being the only Brits we note that as ever English is the common language, so the Germans and Dutch have to put up with our native tongue.
It is just so serene cruising along the river watching the sun getting lower and lower and then it is time for the sundowner. It is a “champagne” Sundowner cruise so there is only one choice for me. Dave sees the bottle of fizz and goes for the safe known quantity of Windhoek Draught (which confusingly, comes in a bottle). Good call Dave as the fizz is sweet and certainly not champagne. Still the fizz fitted the ambiance of the evening so I was happy, especially after the refill. It was just tricky juggling glass and camera but I managed.