Sat. 15th June 2019
I would not normally call setting a 6am alarm sensible but, as the weather forecast shows temperatures of 30° by 10am, I submit. As we are thinking of walking along Whip Snake Gorge which is a 10km (return) walk, partly along a dry river bed we want to get an early start. So, out by 7:15, parked up and walking by 7:45 and the car park is already busy. The plan is to walk out briskly to the furthest point (trying not to get distracted by photo opportunities) and then a more leisurely return journey.
By the time we had walked 3km to the Window, we decided that the further 2km would be a step (well many) too far so, sensibly, we decide to turn back even though we still feel quite fresh in our legs. We explore the Window, which true to Aussie naming is a hole in a rock which you can look through. It is a naturally occurring hole in the sandstone rock. As ever the lighting conditions are a challenge so I lose Dave for a good 5 minutes as he has a scramble trying to find that magic shot, while I rest in a small bit of shade.
The walking in this section is along a stony dry riverbed comprised either of sand or gravel or, in sections, solid rock eroded into channels deep enough for me to stand inside. There is no chance of any shade and it does not take long after sun up for the temperature to rise. The flies also come out to play but as we had been warned we remembered our head nets. Lady or not, I was way beyond glowing nicely by this time and the sweat was running in streams down us. We are just not used to such extreme heat (which is why we avoid Spain in the summer). In this southern part of the park there are sooooo many of the red and black domes which the park is famous for. The highest are 200m high.
Having turned back we have time to take the turning to Piccaninny Creek Lookout which is 500m off the main path over rough terrain through spinifex grass tufts. The path then abruptly ends at a gap in the rocks to provide views out over the plains to a range of hills in the distance. With all the friendly walkers there was no problem over getting our photo taken. We reciprocated the favour of course as well as chatting about previous and future destinations, sharing advice. The views just keep coming and of course don’t forget to look behind to as that could be a stunning view too.
The two main (i.e. most publicised) attractions are close to the car park and therefore are in tour group walking range, so the number of people grows and we pass what seems like hundreds but is apparently only 28 (and mostly a miserable bunch too). We were grateful they were leaving as we then had Cathedral Gorge to ourselves. The path wended through a high sided gorge opening out into an amphitheatre with a small pool at a shady dead end. What we did miss by not being on a tour was to know that we should have tried out the acoustics of the amphitheatre. I was fascinated by these honeycomb looking rock formations.
The final walk was called the Domes Loop and as the park is famous for its domes I expected this to be the highlight of the day but sadly was disappointed. Yes it had domes but no where near as spectacular as many of the others we had seen this morning and and yesterday from the helicopter. All I can think is that it was easily accessible for tour groups with limited time and this walk does showcase some of the classic red and black domes. I do not think it was just that we were hot and tired after over three hours walking in the heat.
The loop walk also headed down a smaller gorge with a small pool at the end. As we passed another tour group the leader said he expected it would dry up soon given the heat and lack of rain this year. As we returned to the car park it was positively heaving with three large tour 4×4 trucks in and most spaces were full. Time to leave then. We were ready to return to our lodge and hope the ceiling fans were on in the communal open area, as the rooms had no respite from the heat. Just one last stop en route to see Elephant Rock do you agree with the naming?
Luckily the ceiling fans were on so we settled down for a lazy (for us!) afternoon. We discuss how well done this relatively new tourist attraction has been set up taking the traditions and lifestyle of the indigenous locals compared to Uluru. In Purnululu there is a sacred green valley where many elders have been buried and no tourists are allowed anywhere near and even from the air no commercial photos can be taken of the place. Every evening the resort staff pay respects to the Aboriginal owners of the land too. Whereas earlier settlers bulldozed their way in taking over the place and we are reminded of the chain walk at Uluru where there are signs to respect the sacred place and do not climb but this is blatantly disregarded by many.
We return to the southern end of the park for sunset and also the rising of the (almost) full moon to try and catch the evening glow on the rocks. It was not our most successful photo session but it was fun and good to get back out in the cool of the day. No one told the flies to leave us alone though. The Bungle Bungle Range has just been spectacular and has definitely lived up to the high hopes that we had when we were planning our itinerary. It never ceases to amaze me what strange formations the world has created.