30th Sept. 2016
We are excited today about moving on to Lago Atitlán as we have heard it is very pretty and it will also be a change from city life. Our pickup is at 9:30am and we are ready in good time. Our route took us out through the busy traffic of Pana and back to the main road to Guatemala City. The road wended its way up through similar terrain as two days ago to a height of 2,800m and will descend to 1,500m by the time we reach the lake.
There is one stop on the way at the Friday market of Solota located on a trade route where the highlands meet the lower land. After the quiet roads we join the end of the queue for town, comprising of vehicles of all shapes and sizes all packed with locals on their way to market. The main street was a bustle of people rushing purposefully past.
The locals are mostly dressed in their traditional dress and we are told to look out for the men in decorated trousers and woollen skirts. The ladies are also in traditional dress of colourful skirts and lacy tops and many are carrying their heavy loads on their heads.
This truly is a working market selling fruit, vegetables, meat, clothing and all number of day to day items. There were very few other tourists and we seemed to just get in the way with the multitude of people rushing in every direction going about their daily lives not taking any notice for us. We always find local markets fascinating, especially the strange items they sell such as bags of limestone.
There was a quick stop to see the church before continuing on the road descending to the lakeside. Apparently there is a procession here for the Sunday Market but today there are just the locals in the adjacent park enjoying the sunshine. We soon got our first glimpse of the lake towered over by three volcanoes and it took our breath away. What a contrast to this morning in the city.
Our hotel is on the main drag but set back with rooms around a small swimming pool, quite a relaxing place in the middle of town. We walk out towards the lake in search of lunch, but first we must “run the gauntlet” through the multitude of street sellers. Boat trip, handwoven shawl, woven bracelets, metal birds, sweets etc etc. My smile and “no graciàs” is soon wearing thin. Eventually we see a tranquil garden restaurant, Deli Jasmine and are enticed in by soothing music and shaded tables in the garden under plant covered trellises.
After lunch it is back down the main drag and after many more “no graciàs” we reach one of the two jetties to sus out the boat trip for tomorrow. This was the jetty the local boats leave whizzing between the lakeside towns. We read there is a three tier pricing system of local Mayan price, other locals and tourists. The alternative is a second jetty which is the other side of town so back we go through town. At the second jetty there is a public tour boat which leaves twice a day and stops in three places at about £10 to £15 per head. At the other extreme we hear of day trips by tour operators at £50 a head – no thank you.
There are no clear signs at the second jetty or a ticket office and it is all too much for us so we just had to sit in a lake side bar with a beer. The excuse was we were waiting to see today’s boats return at 3pm and 3:30pm to see the boats ready to know which one to catch tomorrow. We think we saw the 3pm one arrive but nothing appeared at 3:30 so we returned to the hotel to ask them. The hotel offer us an option of 140 Quetzels each (about £14) so we sign up, well we pay over 300Q and are told to come back at 8:20am tomorrow. No tickets or change are forthcoming today.
Luckily we are safely back in our room before the torrential rains come and so we spend time catching up with blog and photos. Once the weather clears up we venture out in search of supper and settle on a Uruguayan grill and tuck into chicken, sausage and rice whilst listening to two good guitarists playing very listenable to music.
We reflect on the contract between Xela and Pana. Grubby bustling non touristy city vs picturesque Gringo City. Working city with few tourists vs many tourists and the accompanying infrastructure. Sensible prices vs “what you can get away with” pricing. What will tomorrow bring visiting local communities around the lake?